Dinner Is Served - Sunrise Bistro starts pulling double shifts
By Patrick Graham
After three and a half years of providing breakfast and lunch for their faithful regulars, the co-owners of the Sunrise Bistro decided to take their capacity to another level, which is to say they are adding another meal to their repertoire. Dinner service was recently introduced on Fridays and Saturdays to accommodate both the diners’ requests and the ambitions of the proprietors. Jessica Welenteichick and Brian Appelt, long the providers of early morning fare at the corner of Maybank Highway and Main Road on John’s Island, have made the commitment to the evening hours as well.
Stretching their culinary legs, Welenteichick and Appelt came up with a new menu they hope will satisfy their customer base as they expanded into the evening hours. Referring to Appelt, Weleneichick explained the expansion: “He’s not a short-order cook, he likes the dinner thing…he gets to do what he likes to do.” For a former CPA, Welenteichick also knows the addition of Friday and Saturday nights will make the numbers a little bigger while providing another culinary venue for the masses.
After visiting for ourselves, we found that the fried green tomatoes stacked up well against other recipes we have had over the years in Charleston, and that is saying something, given that they’re a staple in these parts, but we found the bacon wrapped hush puppies to be an interesting distraction, not just because everything is better with bacon (because it is), but because it was suggested, so we scored there.
Simply because short ribs are a great excuse to have a form of beef stew in the summertime, that was a sure thing. Fork-tender as expected with mashed potatoes instead of the usual preparation of grits (for my wife, she thinks grits should be in the morning—but also because she loves mashed potatoes) and a wild mushroom demi-glace. This was a solid main course.
But I got the better end of the deal with the pork shank. This preparation called for asparagus and mashed potatoes as well, but the shank was the absolute star of the plate. Fork-tender? How about finger-tender? By picking up the shank by its bone, it began to disintegrate before our very eyes. This is the best visual definition of “falling off the bone” ever seen. Finished with a sauce reminiscent of a sauce Espagnole or Romesco made with Newcastle beer, this dish obviously has a lot of love put into it; I would advise you to go Friday rather than Saturday to make sure the weekend’s allotment of shanks are not exhausted.
Sunrise Bistro has picked up the gauntlet thrown down by the steadily growing number of quality establishments on the culinary frontier of John’s Island. I suggest you plan your weekend accordingly.
1797 Main Rd, Johns Island